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Irkutsk RestaurantDon't worry, family and friends., Shel & Doug have not defected behind the (rusted) iron curtain. But we decided to review another Russian Restaurant, in quick succession after the last. Rumours had been circulating about a restaurant in the Trade Centre for Irkutsk, the closest city to this isolated posting in Ulaanbaatar. So, on with the bear hats and Cossack dancing boots and off we galloped. LOCATION: Once again we headed east along Peace Avenue, looking longingly as we passed the last outpost of the British Embassy, HM's Embassy. Another kilometre or two onwards, and low and behold there it is, 50 metres closer to downtown than the Russian restaurant (link). This is definitely "The Russian Quarter" of town. HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11pm. APPEARANCE/AMBIENCE: The restaurant takes up a fair expanse of the first floor of the Trade Centre. The whole building itself is an attractive, relatively new cream brick affair. The Irkutsk civic fathers obviously have a rouble or two as the complex is very well done for this part of the world. As an aside, there is a Russian food etc shop also on the first floor. Strange Russian beers, pounds of caviar, exotic canned fish, German looking sausages, even cheap wine (3,000Tg per bottle) and more expensive exotic spirits (30,000Tg - they must be distilled from sturgeon sperm) line the shelves. The shop is worth a visit in itself.
Muted Russian music did not seem to invite dancing, but perhaps the bar/restaurant room next door would cater for that. ATTENDANCE: Three tables full of Mongolian/Russian groups. Quite lively and animated. One of the fun parts of our job is guessing the reasons for our fellow guests being there, what their background is and what the hell they are talking about. We had no idea this night. RESTAURANT STAFF: There are three things that make this place a worthy visit. The Russian shop (see above), the ice cream (see below) and most importantly, the waitresses. Our intelligence tells us that there is a bevy of mini-skirted Russian lasses employed here. Their mini-skirts set a higher definition than thought possible. On our visit, we were graced with one of them. The lovely, long-legged Natasha. Facing a choice of what type of execution we would choose, a demise by being lashed to death by her fluttering extra long eyelashes would be a good option. Unfortunately Natasha knew even less English that our Nyet/Da Russian. And no Mongolian for Doug to battle with. And the menu is just Russian. We were saved from Shel's pitiful drawings of a fish, and Doug's embarrassing imitation of a chicken, by Timur, a waiter who materialised as the aforementioned theatrics were starting. SERVICE: Great, albeit quirkily unusual. A few times we were given a running commentary on the progress of the cooking and delivery. Probably an innovation that many "let them wonder" restaurants around the world could adopt. MENU: Uh Oh. Trouble. As mentioned, Russian only. Doug can read (and hence pronounce) the words, but that is of absolutely no help if you don't actually know what "Omol" is. So, we relied on some basic conversation with Timur and our own initiative. FOOD: A pattern is developing with our Russian restaurants. Great soups, great salads and starters, great sweets, but so-so main courses. With Shel's recent sojourn to Lake Baikal wetook advantage of his knowledge of a unique fish from there, called Omol. As an entrée it was so delicious we doubled up. It was smoked and served with olives and onions and had us both in raptures. Doug had the Borsch soup. Apart from a slurping sound, he was silent as he devoured this delectable example of the classic dish. Shel was a little bit more reserved on his judgement of the Selenge soup. As a callow youth in 1960's Western Australia (a culinary backwater if ever there was one at that time), Doug used to impress the girls at the few available restaurants he took them to by ordering "Chicken Kiev" with a nonchalant, international air. It was a bit more impressive than the more usual pie in the back seat of a car at the local Drive-In!!! At last, 40 years later, the chance arrived to have the real thing from a real Russian restaurant. It was good, but sad to say the 1960 version (from memory) was better - even though the Cold War was then at its height. Shel ordered Siberian Steak for his main course, and discovered a fetta-covered tomato on top of fried onions on top of a thin and rather anaemic steak. Quite edible but unfortunately falling into the majority of Ulaanbaatar restaurant food. That is, you could probably do as well at home with a freezer, microwave and 10 minutes of time. But - - - - - - - Move over Norway and New Zealand. The Siberian ice cream we both ordered was absolutely magnificent. It was scattered with pine nuts - a great idea. Entrepreneurs of the world - here is a sure fire concept. A franchise chain of Siberian Ice Cream Parlours. All managed and served by scores of Natashas. You can't miss. Courtesy of Shel & Doug. Just send us our dividends to Pete Morrow's Agricultural Bank here in Ulaanbaatar.
Overall a worthy 7/10 for the food. HYGEINE: A roach !!!!! Our second - and the first was in the Ukrainian Restaurant. Natasha ran for cover, but Timur came to the rescue with an upturned ash-tray. The builders seemed to have achieved the impossible. They built a new building around some very old toilets. But they are clean and won't spoil your evening.
RECOMMENDATION: A worthwhile restaurant to visit. For the food (especially the Omol and the ice cream); for the experience; for the service and the friendliness; and especially to acquaint yourself with the flower of Russian womankind. RATING: 3.8/5
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The restaurant takes up two or three largish rooms. 1950's Art Deco - to a "T", all clean and relatively new. Nice clean white table linen. Western ex-pats will find some delight in some of the strange accoutrements and habits. Watch for where they magically materialise cutlery. Attractively highlighted photos of public buildings in Irkutsk line the walls. It would seem that Irkutsk is an Art Deco city.
Doug stuck with the dark Russian beer. As an Aussie, his judgment was a little harsh. But then he is used to the world's best brews. Shel, ever the romantic, ordered Russian vodka. A Siberian brand called "Baik", served very, very cold (unlike the Mongolian routine). 100 grammes later it was time for our photographs with the staff.
COST: We are doing you all a great favour with these reviews. Once again, a four course meal for 9,200 Tugriks each. Including the beer and vodka. Great value. One Aussie Peso equals 560 Tugriks. One greenback buys 1100 Tugriks. (